Iceland in Winter: Fire, Ice & Adventure

Glaciers, waterfalls, geothermal lagoons and the elusive Northern Lights—seven days discovering Iceland at its wildest.

There are destinations that are beautiful, and then there are destinations that make you feel as though you've landed on another planet.

Iceland is one of them.

I travelled there in the heart of winter, when daylight is precious, mountains are covered in snow and the landscape seems to change by the hour. It was cold, occasionally wild and completely exhilarating—and I can't imagine a better way to have experienced this extraordinary country.

This wasn't a trip about sitting back and watching Iceland through a window. We were outside in it: snowmobiling across a glacier, riding ATVs through riverbeds, trekking over ice in crampons, exploring a lava tunnel, standing beneath enormous waterfalls and warming ourselves in geothermal lagoons.

And somewhere in between, we went looking for the Northern Lights.

Beginning in the Blue Lagoon

We landed at Keflavík and almost immediately experienced one of the wonderful contrasts that defines Iceland: arriving in a stark volcanic landscape and slipping into warm, mineral-rich geothermal water.

Our first stop was The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, where we spent several hours enjoying the Retreat Spa, its private lagoon and the Blue Lagoon Ritual using silica, algae and minerals.

There is something quite surreal about floating outside in steaming blue water while surrounded by black lava and winter skies.

It was also the perfect introduction to Iceland: nature here isn't simply something to admire. You experience it.

The Golden Circle with a Twist

The next day took us through Iceland's famous Golden Circle, beginning at Þingvellir National Park, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart.

From there came the geothermal landscape around Geysir, where Strokkur erupts dramatically every few minutes, followed by magnificent Gullfoss, where the Hvítá River plunges into a deep canyon.

But then we left the traditional sightseeing behind.

We headed onto Langjökull Glacier, suited up and climbed aboard snowmobiles for an hour on the ice. Surrounded by glaciers, volcanic craters and seemingly endless expanses of white, it was one of those moments when you realize just how vast Iceland really is.

That evening brought an entirely different adventure: heading out after dark in search of the Northern Lights.

They are never guaranteed—and that's part of their magic. You watch the forecast, search for clear skies, bundle yourself into more layers than you thought possible and wait.

When nature decides to cooperate, it's unforgettable.

ATVs, Rivers and Þórsmörk

The following morning, we traded snowmobiles for ATVs.

Starting from a private Icelandic farm, we travelled between Hekla and Eyjafjallajökull, crossing riverbeds and following lesser-travelled trails through a wonderfully rugged landscape before stopping for a rustic BBQ lunch.

Then came Þórsmörk.

Reaching this remote valley requires a specially modified vehicle capable of crossing rivers and tackling the Highland terrain—and even getting there becomes part of the experience.

Once inside, you're surrounded by glaciers, valleys, gorges, waterfalls and mountains. It's Iceland on an enormous scale, and one of those places that reminds you how small we really are.

Walking on a Glacier

If snowmobiling over a glacier was thrilling, walking across one was something else entirely.

With crampons strapped to our boots and an experienced glacier guide leading the way, we trekked through an ever-changing world of sculpted ice, deep crevasses and extraordinary shades of blue.

Our objective was an ice cave, a phenomenon created by the constantly moving and changing glacier itself.

It is beautiful, but it also makes you very aware that this landscape is alive. Iceland's glaciers are continually shifting, melting and reforming; what exists one winter may look entirely different the next.

Iceland's Dramatic South Coast

From the glacier we continued along the South Shore, where some of Iceland's most recognizable landscapes appear one after another.

There was Seljalandsfoss, tumbling from the cliffs; magnificent Skógafoss, dropping nearly 60 metres; the dramatic cliffs and sea arch of Dyrhólaey; and finally Reynisfjara, the famous black-sand beach near Vík.

Black volcanic sand, basalt columns, enormous Atlantic waves and the Reynisdrangar sea stacks offshore give Reynisfjara an almost otherworldly beauty.

It's dramatic, powerful and unmistakably Iceland.

Beneath the Surface

Iceland's story isn't only visible above ground.

On our way toward Reykjavík, we stopped at the Lava Centre to better understand the volcanoes and earthquakes that continue to shape the island before heading underground into Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel.

Walking through a tunnel created by flowing lava thousands of years ago gives you an entirely different appreciation for Iceland's geology. The formations, colours and sheer scale reveal what happened beneath the surface as the island was being created.

Fire and ice isn't simply a clever description of Iceland. It's quite literally the story of the country.

Reykjavík: Food, Design & A Little Fun

After several days in the wilderness, Reykjavík felt wonderfully cosmopolitan while still being small enough to explore on foot.

The city has its own distinctive personality with colourful buildings, striking contemporary architecture, great restaurants and an unmistakably creative energy. My own Iceland notes include Harpa, the harbour, food experiences and plenty of time simply wandering the city. I

One of the best ways we experienced Reykjavík was through its food.

Our walking tour took us through the city to a mix of restaurants, small family-run businesses and local favourites, sampling Icelandic lamb, seafood, cheese, ice cream and, naturally, the famous Icelandic hot dog.

It's an easy and wonderfully social way to understand a place through the people who live there.

One Last Soak

We ended our Iceland adventure exactly as we began it…..in warm geothermal water.

But this time it was Sky Lagoon, overlooking the North Atlantic.

The experience includes a seven-step Icelandic bathing ritual, moving between the warm lagoon, a cold plunge, sauna, mist, body scrub and steam before returning to the water. Iceland Fam Program.pdfPDF

After a week of glaciers, snowmobiles, ATVs, waterfalls, ice caves and winter winds, floating in warm water overlooking the ocean felt particularly wonderful.

Why Iceland?

Iceland isn't a destination I would recommend simply for what you can see.

I would go for what you can do.

Walk on a glacier. Snowmobile across one. Stand between tectonic plates. Descend into the remnants of a volcanic eruption. Chase the Northern Lights. Walk across a black-sand beach. Eat your way through Reykjavík. Soak in geothermal water while the winter air surrounds you.

The notes I brought home describe Iceland as a must for travellers who love pristine landscapes and adventure and after experiencing it myself, that's exactly how I would describe it.

A Final Thought

There are easier destinations. There are warmer destinations. And there are certainly destinations where you don't have to think quite so carefully about how many layers you're wearing.

But that's part of Iceland's appeal.

It feels adventurous.

The weather changes. The landscape changes. The Northern Lights may—or may not—appear. And just when you think you've seen Iceland at its most dramatic, you round another corner and find a glacier, waterfall, volcano or black-sand beach that stops you in your tracks.

For travellers who want to return home feeling that they've truly experienced somewhere rather than simply visited it, Iceland is very hard to beat.

And in winter, it is absolutely magical.